They may have been sanctuaries to Zeus, Hera or Hercules, or ancient defensive structures. Hiking trails from Lamari or Stropones lead to the beach at Chiliadou on the east coast for a rewarding swim in clear waters framed by dramatic cliffs.Īt Drakospita in the south, 23 megalithic structures with roofs made of huge slabs of limestone are known as dragon houses. Karystos hosts a wine festival at the end of August, and the estate has four pricey villas (€400 a night) for those who want to push the boat out. At the other end of the island, the Montofoli wine estate in Karystos offers tours and tastings of its four varietals including renowned dessert wines. More recent visitors have included Aristotle Onassis, Maria Callas, Winston Churchill and Omar Sharif. In the north of the island the thermal springs of Edipsos are mentioned by Plutarch and Aristotle as the place Hercules went when he needed to restore his powers. It’s a two-hour drive from Athens, or a one-hour ferry crossing from the port of Rafina – yet very rarely busy. But this gem within striking distance of Athens is worth exploring for the variety it offers: some parts feel like Switzerland-on-sea others resemble the Caribbean.
Greece’s second-largest island, Evia is often overlooked in favour of more glamorous destinations. Photograph: Constantinos Iliopoulos/Alamy For fish, there’s Stamatis taverna in Batsi, Karavostasis in Gavrio on the west coast, or Nonas on the seafront in Chora. The meat is sourced from the owner’s farm and the menu also has vegetable specialities and froutalia (an omelette with potatoes and sausage). By contrast Blu Enigma Hotel (apartment for two from €60) in the village of Apikia has its own skateboarding bowl and hosts artists, BMXers and skaters, with regular art installations and exhibitions.īalkoni tou Aigaiou (Aegean Balcony) offers lunch or dinner with 180-degree sea views. The owner is the embodiment of Greek hospitality, and the organic food is a particular highlight, made using ingredients from the farm such as olive oil, lemons, oranges, apricots, figs and peaches, as well as vegetables. On the outskirts of Chora, Small Paradis e (doubles from €110 B&B, two-night minimum) offers three suites with kitchen facilities on an organic farm. Inland there are spectacular waterfalls at Pithara, and a famous gushing spring at nearby Sariza. Paleopoli, Andros’s ancient capital, has the remains of the fifth-century fortified city, with its marketplace, theatre, altars and temples.
According to legend, in ancient times wine flowed from the mouths of the lion statues in the square, which was the setting for wine festivals called “Dionysus parties”. Six kilometres from Chora, the village of Menites, at the foot of Petalo mountain, is famous for its spring waters. Those with facilities and watersports include Agios Petros, Xrisi Akti and Kypri.
The seaside town of Batsi is where most tourists stay, but it’s still relatively quiet, with a selection of tavernas and coffee shops.Īndros has a glut of stunning wild beaches, including Zorkos, Vitali, Achla (the most difficult to reach), and Pidima tis Grias (old woman’s leap). The main town, Chora, is a cluster of neoclassical mansions that juts out to sea, with a marbled square and impressive museums dedicated to contemporary art, archaeology and folklore. Rent a car that can go off-road, as some of the best places are reached down dirt tracks. More fertile and greener than the rest of the Cyclades, the island has a well-maintained network of trails,making it a hiker’s paradise. Two hours from the port of Rafina, near Athens, this mountainous island is the northernmost of the Cyclades archipelago and a favourite with holidaying Greeks for its food, beaches and pretty villages.
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